Beta Fish Care Basics

The Beta Fish, also known as the Siamese Fighting Fish, is a popular, beautiful and inexpensive pet. It's hard to resist these stunning little jewels!

Beta fish are considered to be a relatively easy pet to own, but keep in mind that beta fish do have specific requirements to keep them comfortable, safe and healthy. Here are some beta fish basics to get you started.

The Beta fish's official name is Betta splendens. The Beta fish's natural coloring was originally much more drab than the intense colors that we see in pet shops today. Also in the wild the original beta fish sported much shorter fins.

The Beta fish originated in the hot, humid rice paddies of Asia. The Beta Fish developed a way to breathe oxygen directly from the air, using a lung-like "labyrinth" organ to survive as the rice paddies experienced drought.This way the bettas could still get air, while living in muddy, shrinking water holes and could survive until the rains returned.

Beta fish do not actually enjoy existing in tiny containers. Even though it's possible for Beta fish to survive in these harsh conditions, this ability was developed by the Beta fish as a means of survival rather than choice. It's much kinder to house your Beta fish in a 2.5 gallon tank or larger.

While it's not necessary to house your Beta fish in a 10 gallon fish tank, it is much more comfortable and your Beta fish will appreciate it. A larger fish tank, such as a ten gallon tank, will also provide you with a fun way to display your prized Beta by adding plantings and other appropriate touches to your fish tank.

Because the Beta originated in a warm climate, Betas do not enjoy being cold. Your Beta will most likely consider your home's room temperature too cold. We suggest investing in an inexpensive aquarium thermometer. A stick-on thermometer will do. You may want to consider placing a small heater in your Beta tank or placing your Beta's bowl in a warm area of your home. Your beta will sit clamped and lifeless in a huddle near the bottom of his tank when he is too cold. Beta's enjoy a water temperature in the mid 70 degrees.

The beta fish is commonly called the Samurai Fighting Fish because male Beta fish will attack each other and fight to the death. Never house male beta fish together. We also do not recommend placing a female Beta fish with your male Beta fish. It is very likely that your male beta will attack the female Beta as well, or possibly harass her to death.

Be aware that Beta fish are not recommended for community tanks. In a community tank the other fish will most likely nip at your Beta fish's long beautiful fins and injure them. If you do decide that you want some companion fish with your Beta, be sure to research which species will coexist peacefully before placing the other fish with your Beta.

Your Beta fish needs only 3 or 4 grains of food each day. It's best to feed your betta one grain of food at a time, several times a day. A Betas stomach is about the size of their eyeball. Too much food will give your Beta bloating pains, constipation, and possibly swim bladder issues (which is often deadly). Feed your Beta fish only special fish food made for bettas.

Betta fish are beautiful and interesting fish to own. Beta fish are intelligent and will quickly learn who their caregiver is. You will notice that your Beta fish will soon learn when you approach and become very excited! If you give your Beta fish the attention and care that he deserves, you will be rewarded with a stunning and interesting pet that is a pleasure to own.

How To Diagnose Sick Fish

Once an Aquarium has been set up and is well stocked with a variety of fish it becomes a pleasure to watch the coming and goings in the fish tank. This is the time when you can really enjoy the little world that you have created. With time you will come to understand how the fish act and gain a sense of their normal behavior. At times this behavior may change and could be down to a number of reasons from the fish becoming stressed, spawning or developing an illness. It is important to be responsive to these changes and determine what might be the problem. This article will deal with when your fish develop an illness. It will discuss the types of problems a fish can suffer from. How to diagnose a sick fish by their behavioral changes and what you can do to cure the illness.

The most obvious way to determine a sick fish is to view it's body for any unusual spots or growths. Ich is a common illness characterized by white spots around the gills or on the body. Ich is a species of ciliate protozoa that is often introduced by snails, new fish or caused by changes in the water condition. Should you notice these distinctive white spots you can treat the tank by adding chemicals that will kill the ciliate protozoa. You can also quarantine fish that may be infected until they are healthy.

Another way to determine that your fish may be sick is to notice it's changed behavior. A common symptom of illness is flashing. Flashing is when the fish appears to be scratching itself on the substrate or rocks and wood in the tank. Flashing could be a sign that the fish is developing an infection on the body.

The fish may also be swimming erratically. This might include darting around the fish tank, moving up to the surface or spinning round on itself in a constant motion. This erratic behavior indicates that the fish is stressed in some way. This may be because the water condition has changed or that the fish is suffering from some kind of illness. As many conditions that affect fish can be attributed to poor water quality it is important to check the water condition first. This could solve the problem immediately and in the future.

Another behavior that might indicate a problem is that the fish are staying around the filter or on the surface a lot. This indicates that they are trying to get more oxygenated water and again might be due to the water quality or may be an illness.

Once you have attained as much physical and behavioral data as possible about the fish you could then consult a fish disease book or visit a website on fish disease. These media often have diagnostic questionnaires on the condition and behavior of the fish. They will ask questions about the fish and help you to determine the problem with the fish and the appropriate action to take.

As a last resort you could take a skin scrape or biopsy of the fish and have the sample diagnosed by a professional. Of course this could create more stress for the fish that could make the condition worse and it is quite costly.

Water condition is the most important factor to consider when keeping your fish healthy. Diligent care of the water and habitat will ensure that your fish don't suffer from any of the common illnesses. If they do however you can follow the advice listed and take the appropriate action.

How to Tell If Your Fish Are Sick

One of the things us Aquarists always worry about is the health of our fish. With a dog or a cat you can quickly tell if they are sick, but with a fish it is more difficult. But how can you tell if your fish are sick?

Diseases

There are many different types of fish diseases that your fish can develop. The diseases can come from bacterial, fungal or parasitic diseases.

Your fish can even develop illnesses from physical ailments, too. These usually develop from the poor quality of their environment requiring them to gasp for air Aggressive tank mates can cause illnesses by nipping fins of other fish.

Spotting Sick Fish

If your fish develops a sickness you want to treat them right away to prevent them from getting sicker and even dying. There are many remedies in your local pet store that will cure your fish if they are sick if you spot if quickly.

There are a few ways you can quickly identify if your fish are sick.

First if you are an Aquarist, you need to know the fish in your aquarium. You should know their personalities and their habits to be able to quickly identify sickness. By knowing this, you will be able to understand when your fish are telling you they are sick.

If your fish is sick, their whole routine will change because they know there is something wrong with them. A sick fish will stop eating and even lose weight. If your fish has vibrant colors and becomes sick or even stressed, their colors will become dull.

Some diseases will cause your fish to not swim as rapidly as they did before, some of your fish may even swim near the surface and upside down. Yet other diseases, such as Flukes, will cause your fish to swim rapidly.

Another sign that your fish is sick is if you notice it rubbing against the substrate or other objects in your aquarium. This is common for fish that contract a parasite such as Ick.

You may notice other things wrong with your sick fish, such as their fins rotting away or a change in color. You may even notice spots of a variety colors on your sick fish.

Illnesses Your Fish Can Develop

If you have an aquarium you will more than likely develop some kind of illness in your fish. How can you prevent your fish from developing an illness and what illnesses can your fish develop?

How Fish Develop Illnesses

Your fish are really healthy little guys. But they can get in to trouble if they become stressed. Stress will cause their immune system to become less effective so that they will become vulnerable to an illness.

So the key to preventing illness in your fish is to not cause conditions that will stress your fish. Activities that can stress your fish are:

Over Feeding
Sudden Temperature Change
Over Crowding
Poor Water Quality
Inconsistent Lighting
Illnesses Fish Can Develop

There are several different kinds of illnesses your fish can develop. Here are a few of the major ones your fish can contract:

Constipation - Yes your fish can become constipated. Serving them the same old food everyday usually causes this. You can tell they are constipated when they stop eating and you see their body swells. Try serving them different types of food. I give my fish flakes, blood worms, brine shrimp and some algae wafers. Which is quite a variety.

Internal Bacteria - When your fish develop this illness you will see their body swell, they will also become listless, grow darker in color and may even die. To attack this you will need to treat the whole tank with antibiotics. This treatment will help all your fish, even those that are not sick.

Ick - When you get this your fish will look like they have white spots all over their body. You again will need to treat the whole tank with one of the many treatments available. Once you spot it you need to start treatment immediately. I keep a cure at home so I can start the treatment right away.

Fungus - You will notice this on the body of your fish. It appears as a white substance where your fish has damaged their skin. Again treat the whole tank with an anti-fungal treatment.

Tumors - Unfortunately this condition is usually untreatable. But the good news is it may not affect their quality of life.
Conclusion

The best way you can prevent your fish from developing certain illnesses is not to stress them. If they do develop some condition, it needs to be treated right away to prevent the condition from spreading.

Keeping African Cichlid Fish

Keeping African cichlid fish should not be a decision taken lightly. It is a serious responsibility to undertake the upkeep and ongoing care of another living creature and that responsibility can be very expensive.

The largest expense will obviously be that of the aquarium itself. Cichlids by their very nature will need a large aquarium of at least 150 gallons. This will cost many hundreds of dollars. The cost of adequate mechanical filtration and the ongoing cost of heating and lighting does tend to make cichlids and expensive past time.

Having said that and despite the huge responsibility, the amount of satisfaction from setting up, maintaining, and watching your fish developing is enormous. One of the main attractions of keeping African cichlid fish is the wide range of bright eye-catching colours. Indeed some of my own fish were a very intense blue and yellow striped combination and proved to be a very active focal point within our aquarium.

Virtually every colour under the sun can be found within the cichlid species and the best colouration is usually when males are ready for breeding. Some cichlids breed easier than others given the right conditions in regard to water quality, temperature and feeling safe to do so.

One of the most fascinating aspects of keeping African cichlid fish was the fact that that they are maternal mouth-brooders. That is to say the female lays her eggs where the male has 'been' then scoops the eggs up into her mouth where they stay for about 3 weeks. This gives the fry a chance to hatch and develop which in turn is supposed to give them a better chance of survival. The downside to this is that in a tank, even with a million places to hide, fry have no brains and will swim around the tank providing fresh food for the other inhabitants. Cichlid fry are usually born nearly transparent but soon develop the same colouration as the female and may take several months before the male fry start to show any signs of the brighter male intensity of colour.

African cichlid fish are very territorial and can develop some aggressive tendencies toward other fish who are deemed to be intruders. This aggressiveness does not mean just chasing around the tank; it can result in the death of the 'intruder'. Most fights take place head to head with the posturing based on who has the biggest mouth. Eventually they will attempt to bite each other and drag their opponent down until the loser swims away. Controlled overcrowding is one method for trying to over-come the territorial disputes. The theory being if there are too many fish in the tank then no territories can be established. My own preferred method of controlling aggression is to change the layout of the aquarium every time the water is changed. This renders any established territories null and void.

Dragonfish Care Basics in Aquarium

Dragonfish, also called Dragon Gobies, Eel Gobies, Peruvian Gobies, or Violet Gobies (among many common names), are a brackish water to fresh water fish from South and Central America.

Gobioides broussonnetii, the true Dragonfish, can reach lengths over 2 feet (60cm), though other members of this group are usually closer to half that size.

These fish are frequently very timid eaters, but once you get them established in your tank and used to your feeding regimen, they can be a fascinating fish for years.
Dragonfish Equipment & Maintenance:

To keep a Dragonfish healthy, remember to provide them with plenty of clean, warm water, and remember that they will do better in brackish conditions than in fresh water.

Your Dragonfish's temperature should be about 80° Fahrenheit (about 26.5° Celsius), and ideally should remain between 77° and 83,° F (25° and 28° C) so you need a heater and a thermometer. Excessive temperature fluctuations, or prolonged time at especially warm or especially cold temperatures and weaken the fish, resulting in loss of appetite and a weakened immune system. An impaired immune system makes your Dragonfish more susceptible to many diseases, from easily treatable Ick to more difficult diseases such as fin and body rot.

Your Dragonfish aquarium should provide at least 25 gallons (95 liters) of space per Dragonfish, plus any space needed for any other fish. A minimum fish tank size of 50 gallons (190 liters) is recommended if you are keeping a Dragonfish. Also, a Dragonfish should be kept in a fish tank with a length of at least 4 feet (1.2 meters).

Dragonfish can be sensitive fish, so maintenance is vital. Perform your weekly 10-15% water changes, so that your Dragonfish always has clean water and any waste or uneaten food that is not processed by the filter is removed.

Your Dragonfish needs good filtration to keep the water from becoming toxic, and you need to keep the filter(s) well maintained. When selecting a filter, remember to make sure that the filter provides sufficient filtration for a tank with the large capacity that your Dragonfish requires. Many people use multiple smaller filters to maintain a large tank like this. Using several aquarium filters allows you to stager your filter maintenance so that you are not changing all of your filter media at once and risking cycling your fish tank again.
Dragonfish Food & Care:

Dragonfish are primarily carnivorous (meat eating) scavengers, so provide him with a high protein diet. Many high quality processed fish foods are available on the market today, and most frozen fish foods are also appropriate.

In the wild, most Dragonfish eat primarily aquatic invertebrates, insects, and insect larvae, and opportunistically scavenge old carcasses, so you are best off to try to duplicate this in the aquarium environment. Provide a wide variety of processed, frozen, and freeze dried foods.

Your fish should be able to consume all the food you offer within two minutes of feeding. If there is food in the tank after this time has elapsed, this contributes to poor water quality and make your Dragonfish more susceptible to disease.

You only need to feed your Dragonfish once a day. If you feed more than once a day you increase the waste your fish are producing and also increase the risk of overfeeding, so it becomes more important that you are performing your weekly 10-15% water changes and all necessary filter maintenance.

Providing a proper diet increases your Dragonfish's life expectancy and bolsters their immune system.

Dragonfish are typically very timid fish, so providing them with plenty of caves and plants to hide in will definitely improve their health and boost their appetite. Also keep in mind that Dragonfish are very fickle about feeding - especially just after transport and shipping.

It is likely that your Dragonfish will not eat the first day or two after being brought home, however, if this persists, try training them onto your feeding schedule with frozen bloodworms or brine shrimp. Once they are eating well, wean them onto your more usual and more varied fare.

Keep in mind that these fish do not have good eyesight, and are easily bullied by other fish. If you have a fish in your tank that is an aggressive eater, it is very likely that they will prevent the Dragonfish from eating. If this happens, you will probably be best off to separate your Dragonfish from the rest of the fish in the tank with a divider or partition until the Dragonfish is used to the food and feeding schedule and is eating well. If the bullying that prevented the Dragonfish from eating to begin with continues after this acclimation period, you should probably consider separating the Dragonfish or the bullies permanently.
Dragonfish Companionship:

Dragonfish can be kept with a variety of other fish, though small fish will sometimes become prey to the Dragonfish. Also, as noted above, Dragonfish do not do well with particularly aggressive fish.

As with all fish, Dragonfish can be kept with fish with similar temperaments and care requirements. Your best bets for companionship with your Dragonfish will be medium sized brackish water fish.
Finally:

Remember, Dragonfish are beautiful living creatures. It is the responsibility of the pet owner to care for their pet and provide a healthy environment. So give your Dragonfish space, clean, warm, brackish water, plenty of hiding places, and high-quality, highly varied foods and he should be a good companion for a long time.

Best Food to Feed Arowana Fish

This article here will focus on the discussion whether constant feeding of natural live foods is the right thing to do and whether it might be possible to feed arowana solely on pellets. (Note: These are based on the experience shared among fellow aquarist from local community fish club who keeps arowana and different types of fish as pets.)

Arowana fish generally accept all types of live foods from bullfrog, freshwater shrimps, feeder fish and insects like grasshoppers but that doesn’t mean that they won’t take commercialized dried pellets. Due to their predatory instinct, naturally they will prefer to feed on something that is still alive whereby they can chase and hunt and since most juvenile arowana that you bought from the pet stores are already trained strictly to live on those diet, getting them to switch to something that consist solely of dried pellets can be rather tough.

But before we move further into this topic, most aquarist will always have doubts on whether doing this is the right thing since we are denying the very basic diet that the fish has depended on to survive. Although the general consensus agreed among all arowana keepers are, feeding them live foods will ensure that their precious pets grow at faster pace avoiding the dreaded stunted condition, but however, there are reports saying that feeding pellets with all-rounder complete nutrition can still achieve the similar normal growth rate. How true the finding is, can be very much debatable because as there is no concrete evidence and live experiment that suggest this is fine but rather the observations are based on experiences with quite a number of external factors kick in that could jeopardize the accuracy of the results.

Despite all that, why do we chose and decide to introduce this condition to our fish? There are many reasons on why feeding your arowana on pellets is the right thing to do. First of all, most live feeds and even market shrimp if not properly washed will harbor disease bearing bacteria. Feeder fish especially will carry with them tape worms in their stomach and you risk the chance of introducing these parasites when your arowana gobble up those fish. Secondly, certain live foods like bull frogs and shrimp if feed excessively can sometimes cause digestion problems and if you notice that you fish vomiting after feeding, this is a clear signal that they cannot adjust to the meal and overfeeding will make it to become worse.

Getting your arowana to accept pellets is not an easy task. Most of the time they would rather go without food and stay hungry than to consume something that goes off the norm. Certain aquarist go to the extent of starving their pet fish hoping that when left with no choice, they will consider taking the pellets but I find that by doing this, you will risk the chance of malnutrition and then subjecting your fish to stressful condition. One of the approaches is to blend the pellets together with their daily meals. For instance, if your arowana fish is based on shrimps diet, then adding the pellets and blend the shrimp together as a paste and then slowly removing the shrimp from the formulation might work. Although chances of success might be slim, it is worth the try if you are keen on your objective to totally convert your arowana to accept only pellets.

For me, the best thing to do is to always vary their diet. Feeding too much live foods may not be the right thing to do after all while a diet with only pellets might not be a good thing as well. Using commercially prepared pellets can be used as a staple feed while shrimps, bull frogs can be introduced from time to time. When it comes to selecting your pellets, there are quite a number of reputable fish food brands produced from different manufacturers. The best thing is to check out what they have to offer based on the nutritional information as stated in the content data. My personal preferences have always been Hikari as they even have a special blend of food made for arowana.

How to take care gold fish

Goldfish are great, rewarding pets, however their proper care is of little knowledge as we have only begun to understand the true requirements of these fish to make them thrive. Here is how to make your gold fish happy and healthy!

1. Get a large enough tank

The minimal tank size for one goldfish is 20 US gallons (Remember, they grow to about 20cm, and sometimes over!) and you will need to add 10 US gallons onto that 20 gallons for every next goldfish. So,1 goldfish needs 20 gallons, 2 goldfish need 30 gallons, 4 need 50 gallons and so on. As babies, you can provide them with a five gallon tank.

2. Use gravel that won't get stuck in your fish's throat

Use either large rocks (that are too big to swallow) or very small gravel (too small to get stuck in their throats). Small gravel is better for goldfish because it is too small to get caught in the throat and because goldfish like to be able to dig. They are bottom-feeders.

3. Perform a 50%-75% water change weekly

If you do not have a filter in your tank, do a water change every 2-3 days.
Soap is poisonous to fish and will kill them quickly, so don't wash your tank with soap. Also, don't use regular tap water to put in your tank. Bottled/jugged water is best for filling tanks without filters, and even ones with filters. If you don't want to do this, buy some water conditioner and add the amount it provides on the bottle.

4. Feed your fish 2 times daily

Only give it what it can consume in a minute. Make sure you have a strong enough filter for the fish. Don't clean the filter in new water; clean it in the tank water so it does not take the good bacteria away that helps your fish live.
Before adding your fish, make sure to tank has gone through the fishless cycle - you can read more about fishless cycles in different articles.

How to take care koi fish

How do you take care of Koi fish? Koi can live a long time, if taken care of properly. They are very old fish; they are one of the oldest. They are long lived so they really do get to know you when you...

They are very old fish; they are one of the oldest. They are long lived so they really do get to know you when you get to know them. They have very distinct personalities. They are friendly and have interestingly enough different colors. Some are friendlier than others.

First there are the ones that are more naturally colored and naturally body shaped. But they will follow you around. They do hear a lot. They can hear through the water. They will come to recognize faces. They really then come to recognize different walks of people. That's one reason you can sit on a pond and they come to you.

It is important to keep an eye on the health of the Koi. You have to look to see if they are getting sick from possible bacterial infections. All the disease source will be on the under belly, so it is important to look for that. They are expensive fish, because they need care. But that also makes them friendlier. You can pet them. They will come up to have their heads stroked if you teach them to feed out of your hands. They will suck on your fingers.

Because Koi live a long time it really is our responsibility to take good care of them. They really do become a family pet. They don't tell you when they are not feeling good. They don't wine. They don't start chewing on furniture. It is important to learn their personalities.

How to take care louhan fish

Below is tips for how to take care louhan fish. There are many things you should to know as basic

1. Aquarium Setup

Flowerhorn cichlids need large aquarium due to their large size and aggressive temperament. They should be kept alone or with other large aggressive cichlids from the same area. You can get more details from flowerhorn.info in you are interested to keep louhan fish as your pets

2. Feeding Flowerhorns

Flowerhorn cichlids are like most South American cichlids anything but picky eaters and they accept almost any food. They have high energy consumptions and need a lot of food to develop optimally.The fact that these large fishes require a lot of food also means that there is a large strain on the water and water changes should be do one to two times a week.

3. Breeding Flowerhorn cichlids

It is possible to breed Flowerhorn cichlids in aquarium tanks in the same way you would breed Trimacs and other large South American cichlids. You should however not expect to get Flowerhorn cichlids of the same quality as the parents. Some may be, but that is not guarantee.It takes knowledge about the the different strains and line breeding to create quality Flowerhorn fish.

How to take care arowana fish

Arowana fish or Asian Arowana (Scleropages formosus) is one of the most favorite fish in the world. Great endurance, price and million lovers are little many reasons that make Arowana will be the legend.

Actually, Arowana cannot be spared from the commodity business. Collectors or lovers would buy little Arowana and then sell it when reaching specific size ("..I heard their profits reached up to 10x only in a year..").

Lets start the tips and ways how to maintain and grow Arowana fish. In addition, I hope you also share other information about Arowana fish.

1. Check your aquarium equipment

Many factors in aquarium you should know when caring for Arowana
The successful of aquarium to be a comfortable place for Arowana fish is really influenced by the completeness of supporting facilities, such as:

Aerator
Function of aerator or air pump is to supply air into the aquarium and simultaneously vaporize or push unused materials out from the aquarium. Aerator is quite good if it has small voltage but enough high in blowing air.

Heater & Thermometer
Heater is necessary especially when the aquarium water temperature is dropped dramatically, while thermometer installed is used to control temperature in the aquarium. In cold areas, heater and thermometer is very necessary.

Filter
Filter has a function to filter water in the aquarium. Its work includes: suck up, filter and return the water into aquarium in the clean condition.

Fluorescent lamp
The function of fluorescent lamp is to emit light. Besides that, it can also enhance the appearance of aquarium. However, don't let it to produce heat excessively. Ideally, an area of 80x40 cm aquarium requires 20 watts power fluorescent lamps.

2. Be diligent to maintain your aquarium, please!

Five points we should know about the water condition of Arowana aquarium
Agree or disagree, you should be diligent to care for Arowana if you already love it. Why? Because the healthy, fresh and fun appearance of your Arowana depends on you. Well, it is your consequence when caring for Arowana.

Feeding
The main food menu for Arowana is centipedes. However, I recommend you to not give it constantly. It should be feed other foods, such as: shrimp, cockroaches, frogs, lizards and crickets.

Controlling and changing water
Controlling water temperature and pH should be done every day. The ideal water temperature for Arowana is about 25 to27 Celsius. If the water temperature is cold, turn on heater immediately until reaching ideal temperature.

Ideally, desired pH for Arowana is about 6 to 8.5. If too low, then add any limes into the aquarium. In addition, water sanitation should also be noted. You can give malachite green, once in three weeks, into the aquarium.

Don't forget, the water should also be replaced. It can be shared into two ways, namely:
(a) Regular water change done every two days with 10% of the total aquarium water volume.
(b) Total water change done every 3 months.

If you use plumbing water, let it for 24 hours to make chlorine contained in that water is settled. After that, the water can be put into the aquarium.

3. Aquarium interior

We should provide aquarium as natural as their original environment
Aquarium is a living replica in its wild environment. Therefore, it is necessary to arrange the aquarium interior. This means that aquarium interior design demands appreciations of aesthetics, so that the combination between the beauty of aquarium and the elegant of Arowana can show harmonious environment.

Aquatic plants
Considering the origin of Arowana that likes to hide under water plants, then we are ready to provide those plants. There are several types of aquatic plants to choose, such as: Vallisneria spiralis, Hidrilla verticillata, Riccia fluiutana, Higrophila polisperma, Pistia stratiotes, Najas indica and so forth.

Sand and rocks
Sand is used as the foundation of stone placing. It's better to use river sand, which is still mixed with humus. In addition, we can also give rocks and corals. Ideally, the diameter size of stone is 3 mm. These rocks should have a variety of patterns and colors but still beautiful.

4. Disease

Causes of disease can be shared into two categories namely non-parasitic and parasitic organisms.
Parasitic organisms are originally comes from: viruses, bacteria, fungi, worms or protozoa; whereas non-parasitic medium such as: environmental factors, diet and heredity. But in reality, both of them are difficult to distinguish.

There are many characteristics of Arowana fish attacked by kinds of diseases, either due to parasitic or non-parasitic. It would be seen passive, weak, tending to swim in the water surface, decreased appetite, hard to breath, fish's body that was not slippery. Because of reduced mucous membranes so that fish is easily caught. Other signs, such as: bleeding in the chest , broken scales and cracked dorsal fins.

Environmental factors that cause illnesses are: water pH. Fluctuations of water pH are affected by various things such as: the presence of CO2. Besides that, sudden changes of water temperature also greatly affect Arowana's health.

Decreased oxygen level occurring in the water and the presence of toxic gases, such as: CO2, ammonia and water pollution, will harm Arowana's health. Food factors, such as: feeding fresh fishes, will be a risk factor because they can be a carrier of disease.

Hereditary factors also lead to make health trouble at the Arowana, like as: unwell fish scales, didn't have straight back, albino and conjoined twins.